The rector of our church (preist/pastor) was also made a Canon of St. Patrick's Cathedral. Now, I don't understand completely what that means but I know it's a big deal. Well, we have become friends with Patrick (he'll 'call in' to our house for tea at 8:30 pm) and he was kind enough to offer us a personal tour of St. Patrick's Cathedral. Not only that, but he took us out to lunch beforehand. We like him.
Little background. We attend a Church of Ireland parish here in Dublin - which is Anglican/Episcopal. I knew nothing of this tradition when we moved here and Patrick was nice enough to give me some pamphlets explaining all the "Frequently Asked Questions". I was surprised he actually had something tangible to give me and they've actually been surprisingly helfpul. Clearly, they've run into these questions before. (For instance, they use the Common Book of Prayer and the phrase, "We believe in the Holy Catholic Church" which confused me to no end). I still no nothing of the vernacular of this denomination but I'm learning some.
I found it very helpful to learn that Catholic and Protestant are not "opposites". There are Catholics who "accept the universal jurisdiction of the Pope" - and these would be Roman Catholics. There are also Catholics "who do not accept the Pope's jurisdiction or certain doctrines of the Roman Catholic Church. Some are called Protestant or Reformed Catholics". "The Roman Catholic Church teaches that the Pope has, by divine right, jurisdiction over the universal Church, and in certain circumstances his utterances are infallible. The Church of Ireland does not accept either of these teachings..." (apck, 2002). There you have it. That should clear up any and all questions about religion. This concludes are theological discussion.
St. Patrick's Cathedral (the present structure at least) was built in the 1200s. They also say this is the site where St. Patrick himself baptised people around 450 AD. (prior to this structure, there had been a wooden church here) Patrick says the church is built upon an ancient river and they say the water is still present as huge portions of the cathedral floor are still pushed up, every single year. They have to repair the floor and re-tile, each time.
Patrick is great. He's been married 30 years (another difference with the Catholic church), he and his wife are very well-educated and they have three amazing daughters - a teacher, a lawyer and a scientist at Oxford! (who will be completely her post-doctoral work at Cambridge in case there was any question about her excellence) We've learned a lot about Patrick and are always struck by how candid he is with us, what a sharp sense of humor he has and more generally, that he likes to spend time with us. :)
The back of the church is filled with rows of wooden seats (some pictured below), then as you near the front, there are these beautiful wooden boxes with red velvet cushions. These are for the family members of clergy and this is the 'box' designated for Patrick's family. Now, normally they would be in Monkstown at our church (30 minutes away) but sometimes they come to visit Patrick if he'll be delivering a sermon here.
Just in front of these booths you see the pulpit on the left (raised), then the gate where access to the public is denied. Well.....not if you're with one of the Canons! Patrick swiftly took us around the side, unlocked a gate, and gave us a private tour of the formal seating area for the Canons, the choir and the Archbishop of Dublin.
The Pulpit where Patrick speaks when he is "in residence" at St. Patrick's. As Canon, you spend one entire week at the Cathredral, twice per year. So next month, Patrick will 'move in' to the Cathedral where he is to attend every single service (4 or 5 a day), for 7 days while also being present for tourists and any special services going on.
(the boys' choir practiced just below these flags, around a grand piano.)
Patrick asking the choir director is the boys will be performing. These are the young boys in the St. Patrick's choir and I've almost never heard something more beautiful than their voices echoing through that cavernous cathedral. I GET boys' choirs. Wow. And this teacher was incredible. These boys are a very big deal. They attend the very elite St. Patrick's Choir School (founded 1432) and Patrick says they're in to school by 8:30 am and still there at 6:30 pm, every night. They learn Irish, English, Latin, have choir practice, etc. etc. I was in awe of them. (no pictures or video were allowed of their rehearsal but thankfully I had taken this terrible shot before they put up the "no photography" sign. I showed them.)
Flags in the North Transept - this used to be a separate chapel dedicated to the Irish men (and perhaps some women) who died in the service of the British army.
Patrick's Stall, right next to the Archbishop of Dublin
Helmets from the Knights of St. Patrick
Looking from the altar back toward the front doors.
Norah skipping along the altar at St. Patrick's Cathedral (not open to the public but we had the special tour with Patrick)
Loved these chairs. The majority of the cathedral has rows of these, before the boxes for clergy family and finally the gated area for clergy themselves.
2 comments:
Oh my word, what a cool experience! I hope you know how lucky you are to have that personal tour guide/friend.
Happy (early) St Patrick's Day to my Irish cousins!
What a gorgeous church (cathedral) I am always amazed at the detail in these churches which were skillfully crafted by hand many years ago. Today we have machines, and tools but our churches don't even come close to the awe and beauty of these. So fortunate to have a tour!
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